Fitting of Points and Condenser for 650 Russian Boxers
1) The first thing to do is to remove the electronic unit in it's
Type 2, 3, & 4 units are located entirely under the front cover. The
systems also has a black box is under the seat.
2) Keep the wire that supplied power to the old unit that comes from the
kill switch (normally red) Check that it supplies 12 volts when switched
and off at the kill switch with the ignition switch keyed on.
3) Mount the mechanical distributor base under the front cover where the
electronic unit was over the shaft that extends from the camshaft. Then
mount the points cam and flyweights on the end of the shaft.
3.a) There are two styles of cam and flyweights. The one piece unit,
desirable due to soft pins that tend to wear out. The two piece unit is
better quality, but tricky as the top plate has to be
put on correctly. When
done correctly there are two square openings created,
allowing you to see the
flyweight retard springs. If done wrong the opens
created are angular and
the flyweights will not fling out and advance the
4) After the mechanical system is mounted apply a few drops of oil on
felt to lube the points/cam rider.
5) Now back to the wiring. The red wire from the kill switch is to be
directly to one side of the coil and the other side of the coil is to be
wired to the post on the outside of the mechanical distributor unit.
is now complete. The circuit is completed as the points close, grounding
wiring, thus charging the coil. A note about the coil;
The coil should have a primary
winding resistance of 5 ohms. Most electronic ignition coils have only
ohms, so you should replace the coil or add a 3 ohm 25 watt inline
resistor between the coil and the distributor. The Type 1 coil was 5
but not types 2,3 & 4. A aftermarket "Harley" coil for points (5 ohms)
had in the neighborhood of $50, but it has to be
mounted somewhere other than under the front cover and will require longer
5.a) Adjust the points gap. Using the kick starter turn the motor over
the cam opens the points to their maximum opening, the points cam rider
is on the high side of the cam. At this point loosen
the top screw above the points plate about 1/4 turn and use the bottom screw
screw), to open and close the gap. Then adjust the gap
using a feeler gage to
0.4mm - 0.6mm or just go with .018 to .020" and lock down the top screw. Turn the
motor over and recheck your gap, if correct - GOOD, if not repeat the
process until it is correct.
6) Now it is time to set your timing. To do this you will need a 12 volt
test light, you can make one with a tail light bulb with two lengths of
12" long soldered to it, one on the base and one to the bottom contact
alligator clips at each wire end, or you can just by one something like
6.a) Connect the test light between the triggered side of the coil and
ground. (The triggered side of the coil is the side that goes to the
Note: There is a big difference in the Urals and the Dnepr's
settings, I will give you both as 6b and 6c below.
6.b) This is for the URAL, Remove the rubber
plug that allows you to view
the flywheel and see the timing marks. Now look for the arrow by itself
(-->), not the dot arrow (* -->) as the dot arrow is used for setting
electronic systems. Set the motor at the point where the plain arrow
(-->, or TDC) lines up with the mark on the case (normally
identified as M3 -). Turn on the key
and make sure the kill switch is also no. Now, back
off the three screws that
hold down the unit and move it clockwise or counter clockwise to the
point just where the test light, lights up, at
this point tighten the screws and recheck. The
light should light at the point where
the arrow comes around and lines up with the case mark (TDC, top dead center). If not, do it again
until it lights at just that point.
6.c) The Dnepr is done like this, Turn the key and kill
switch on. Now use a
paper clip or tooth pick to hold the flyweights out to the full advance
point, using the small
notch in the fly weights and pressing against the top
plate. On the flywheel you will find a (b) line this up with the mark on the case. Adjust the
distributor to the point where the light lights when the flywheel mark (b) and the case mark line up.
Now, remove the spreader, be it a paper
clip or tooth pick and the light should go out, then
come on again when the weights are opened to the max point again. If not, repeat the process
until the light lights when the flyweights are opened fully, and the (b) on the flywheel is lined up
with the case mark(-). This is the correct setting for the Dnepr 650 OHV motor, I don't know
about 750 flat heads, Ural or Dnepr.
7) Replace the units cover and see if the bike will start.
If the bike starts, I would like to take this time to
congratulate you on a
job well done!... and if not, you have not followed my
instructions correctly. Start over and this time you will be trouble shooting, good luck.
I have used this and many others have followed my
instructions with good results.
Please understand that this will violate the EPA's
approval of your bike and that a
good electronic system is far better than this old
system. Advantages to this old
system are; this it is an affordable fix for a bad
electronic system ($50/$400) and
something that you could fix on the side of the road if need be. I
advise you replace a good electronic unit, but it is assuring to have
system onboard for an extended road trip, just in case the electronic
decides to go South when you want to go in a different direction.
Print a copy these instructions and carry with a
points system, if you decide
it would be advantageous for you to carry a back-up
Sidney F. Pollard III