1) The first thing to do is to remove the electronic unit in it's entirety. 
Type 2, 3, & 4 units are located entirely under the front cover.  The Type 1
systems also has a black box is under the seat. 

2) Keep the wire that supplied power to the old unit that comes from the
kill switch (normally red) Check that it supplies 12 volts when switched on
and off at the kill switch with the ignition switch keyed on.

3) Mount the mechanical distributor base under the front cover where the
electronic unit was over the shaft that extends from the camshaft. Then
mount the points cam and flyweights on the end of the shaft.

NOTE!
3.a) There are two styles of cam and flyweights. The one piece unit, less
desirable due to soft pins that tend to wear out. The two piece unit is of better quality, but tricky as the top plate has to be put on correctly. When done correctly there are two square openings created, allowing you to see the flyweight retard springs. If done wrong the opens created are angular and the flyweights will not fling out and advance the timing.

4) After the mechanical system is mounted apply a few drops of oil on the
felt to lube the points/cam rider.

5) Now back to the wiring. The red wire from the kill switch is to be wired
directly to one side of the coil and the other side of the coil is to be
wired to the post on the outside of the mechanical distributor unit. Wiring
is now complete. The circuit is completed as the points close, grounding the

wiring, thus charging the coil. A note about the coil; The coil should have a primary
winding resistance of 5 ohms. Most electronic ignition coils have only 1-2
ohms, so you should replace the coil or add a 3 ohm 25 watt inline ballast
resistor between the coil and the distributor. The Type 1 coil was 5 ohms,
but not types 2,3 & 4. A aftermarket "Harley" coil for points (5 ohms) can be had in the neighborhood of $50, but it has to be mounted somewhere other than under the front cover and will require longer ignition wires.

5.a) Adjust the points gap. Using the kick starter turn the motor over until
the cam opens the points to their maximum opening, the points cam rider is on the high side of the cam. At this point loosen the top screw above the points plate about 1/4 turn and use the bottom screw (eccentric adjusting screw), to open and close the gap. Then adjust the gap using a feeler gage to
0.4mm - 0.6mm or just go with .018 to .020" and lock down the top screw. Turn the
motor over and recheck your gap, if correct - GOOD, if not repeat the
process until it is correct.

6) Now it is time to set your timing. To do this you will need a 12 volt
test light, you can make one with a tail light bulb with two lengths of wire
12" long soldered to it, one on the base and one to the bottom contact and
alligator clips at each wire end, or you can just by one something like it.

6.a) Connect the test light between the triggered side of the coil and
ground. (The triggered side of the coil is the side that goes to the points)

Note: There is a big difference in the Urals and the Dnepr's timing
settings, I will give you both as 6b and 6c below.

6.b) This is for the URAL, Remove the rubber plug that allows you to view
the flywheel and see the timing marks. Now look for the arrow by itself
(-->), not the dot arrow (* -->) as the dot arrow is used for setting the
electronic systems. Set the motor at the point where the plain arrow (-->, or TDC) lines up with the mark on the case (normally identified as M3 -). Turn on the key and make sure the kill switch is also no. Now, back off the three screws that
hold down the unit and move it clockwise or counter clockwise to the point just where the test light, lights up, at this point tighten the screws and recheck. The light should light at the point where the arrow comes around and lines up with the case mark (TDC, top dead center). If not, do it again until it lights at just that point.

6.c) The Dnepr is done like this, Turn the key and kill switch on. Now use a
paper clip or tooth pick to hold the flyweights out to the full advance point, using the small notch in the fly weights and pressing against the top plate. On the flywheel you will find a (b) line this up with the mark on the case. Adjust the distributor to the point where the light lights when the flywheel mark (b) and the case mark line up. Now, remove the spreader, be it a paper clip or tooth pick and the light should go out, then come on again when the weights are opened to the max point again. If not, repeat the process until the light lights when the flyweights are opened fully, and the (b) on the flywheel is lined up with the case mark(-). This is the correct setting for the Dnepr 650 OHV motor, I don't know about 750 flat heads, Ural or Dnepr.

7) Replace the units cover and see if the bike will start.

If the bike starts, I would like to take this time to congratulate you on a
job well done!... and if not, you have not followed my instructions correctly. Start over and this time you will be trouble shooting, good luck.

I have used this and many others have followed my instructions with good results.

 

Disclaimer:

Please understand that this will violate the EPA's approval of your bike and that a good electronic system is far better than this old system. Advantages to this old system are; this it is an affordable fix for a bad electronic system ($50/$400) and
something that you could fix on the side of the road if need be. I wouldn't
advise you replace a good electronic unit, but it is assuring to have this
system onboard for an extended road trip, just in case the electronic unit
decides to go South when you want to go in a different direction.

Print a copy these instructions and carry with a points system, if you decide it would be  advantageous for you to carry a back-up ignition system.

Sidney F. Pollard III