A common topic on every Ural discussion Web
Board is the quirkiness of the Ural transmission and what
technique(s) can be used to improve the upshifting
operation. Everyone would like smooth, silent, quick shifts
at 4,000-5,000 RPM. There is indeed a way to accomplish this
with no adjustments usually required.
Some Background: I've put heavy mileage on BMWs (R69/US,
R75/5, R100/7) and the Ural '02 750. All of them have
non-synchronized gear sets in the transmission. Their design
wouldn’t be at all strange to a 1935 German designer. When
the Germans introduced the R69 to the U.S. magazine writers,
everyone gave unfavorable mention to the "balky" shifting.
Yet at the same time, the magazine writers did give credit
to the BMW factory riders for being able to pull redline
shifts without apparent difficulty. The Factory riders would
feel at home on today's Ural and use the same techniques
common in the late 1930's, useful in the late 1960's, and
appropriate for today's Ural.
Double clutching when upshifting is the "secret". The higher
the RPM, the better it works.
At your desired shift point, pull in the clutch; then NUDGE
the shifter upwards (with the top of the arch of your foot,
and NOT your toe. You need fine control leverage, and the
tip of your toes just can't meet the requirement). You will
have to slide your foot as far forwards under the shifter as
you can get, in preparation for the shift.
You will actually "feel" the gearbox slip out of its current
gear and into the neutral that exists between every gear
set. While letting the engine RPM drop for about 3/4 of a
second, let the clutch out, pull the clutch in, and finish
your shift. Each rig is slightly different, and you'll find
yourself adjusting your timing to fit your rig's
With a week of practice, you will be taking pride in your
newfound "silent shifting" skill. And, you might be
wondering why nobody told you earlier... since the gearbox
hasn't really changed since the late 1930's? I have no idea
If you have a rig that returns to idle slowly, this
technique still works as described. Your engine will still
drop rpm's rapidly at higher engine speeds where double
clutching is at its best.
As you gain experience, you will be able to adjust your
double clutching movements to accommodate virtually any
engine rpm, and do it strictly "by ear". In the long term,
you'll be able to shift without the clutch, if absolutely
required. If you've ever broken a clutch cable, you know how
handy it would have been to get home without waiting for
help to arrive.
Downshifting for me has never been an issue on any of the
German design gear boxes, I just "grab and stab", resulting
in a nice solid THUNK without grinding, crunching or double
Best Wishes to All