If you can SAFELY elevate the bike so that you can get your head under the engine while working, the job will be much easier. It's somewhat tedious to work via a mirror for most people (see below for where a mirror can come in handy). But be careful - if this bike falls on you the result can be just as fatal as a falling car.

Once the oil is drained and you have the bike positioned, remove all of the 10mm bolts around the edges of the old sump. Once you make sure all the bolts are out you should be able to work the old sump off of the engine. You can use a soft drift or block of wood and a hammer to dislodge it.

Now that you have the old sump removed, clean the bottom of the engine crankcase where the new gasket will go. Brake cleaner works well to remove any remaining oily residue. Be careful not to gouge the crankcase surface while cleaning it or you may develop a leak.

You will see the oil pump on the left side of the engine crankcase facing the front of the bike. It has a round screen on it that is held in place with wire. The wire goes through a hole in each of the 2 'pins' that stick through the screen. First, remove this wire and then remove the screen.

The oil pump pickup extension has a new screen welded in place. This screen must be installed in place of the one that you removed. The tricky part of installing the screen is getting the new wire through the holes in the pins from underneath. You'll need some needle-nosed pliers and a bit of patience. It's not a hard job, just trying. If you can't elevate the bike safely, this is where you will need a mirror to see inside the pickup to thread the wires through the holes.

NOTE: Do NOT rotate the pins to adjust the angle of the holes - these are also the end cap bolts for the oil pump. If the end cap is too tight, the oil pump can seize.

Once you have the wire safely in place and the ends twisted together to lock it in place, you are ready to install the new sump. Make sure the gasket surface is clean, and recheck the crankcase as oil often 'wicks' out onto the mating surface so it may need a last spray of cleaner. Do a test fit to make sure everything lines up and to make sure you have a feel for the fit.

Use the gasket cement of your choice. Some prefer no cement, others like the traditional shellac based gasket sealant, and others RTV silicone. Whatever you use, don't overdo. In this case the minimum to do the job is best. I like to put a bit of silicone between thumb and forefinger and wipe it onto the gasket.

Get everything in position and raise the sump to the crankcase. Get one of the bolts started and finger-tighten it enough to stay put. Next, start another bolt on the opposite side to help guide the pan. It's better to tighten the bolts on alternate sides than to go in a circle because it doesn't tend to 'walk' the gasket. A good pattern to use is to start with a center bolt on the right side, then go to the opposite bolt on the left. Return to the right and do the next bolt forward, but on the left do one bolt BACK. A hand nut-runner is a good tool to use, but avoid the powered ones.

Once you have been all the way around, repeat the process several times. Each time you will find that the sump has settled a bit - the cork gasket used is especially flexible and is intended to compress a lot to seal well. If you only go around the sump once or twice, you'll find the bolts somewhat loose by the next oil change.

Cup a 1/4" drive ratchet in the palm of your hand and tighten all bolts equally, following the same pattern as above. Over tightening can strip the threads.

Give the gasket cement some curing time. Make sure the drain plug is in tight and fill with fresh oil.

NOTE: The dipstick will NOT register the first quart of oil. Don't forget to allow for the extra capacity when changing the oil.

Now ride that puppy!